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trading in ivory, spices and slaves dominated
the East African coast, and their influence reached
far inland. Inevitably the Europeans (British
and Germans), decided to have a turn and in the
early-twentieth century they took over the land,
but not the hearts and minds of East Africa.
Kenya's
second largest city and main port is Mombasa and
regular chanting from the Mosques proclaims it
to be a strongly Muslim district. The old town
has a great deal of historic charm but the heart
of the new city is unexciting. Once out of the
city, the Muslim influence is fairly absent from
the hundreds of beach resorts, except perhaps
in the architecture and food.
WASINI
ISLAND AND KISITE-MPUNGUTI MARINE PARK
The long coastline has several Marine Parks, the
southern most of which is Wasini Island and Kisite-Mpunguti
Marine National Park. Here you can swim in your
own personal aquarium and colourful coral garden.
It is considered by many to be the finest marine
park in Kenya and requires a boat trip to visit
it, as the park is between 2½-5 miles (4-8km)
out to sea. The reef is deep enough to be protected
by clumsy feet and is in excellent health. A dhow
trip to the marine park is often combined with
a seafood lunch on Wasini Island and is a very
popular way to spend a day.
MALINDI
AND WATAMU MARINE NATIONAL PARKS
Half way up Kenya's coast is Watamu and Malindi
- an area much loved by Ernest Hemmingway, who
came here for big game sport fishing. The marine
parks of this area have their coral reefs several
miles off shore and glass bottomed boats are the
usual form of transport to get to the reefs. This
allows non-swimmers the opportunity to take a
look at the coral and colourful fish, who crowd
around the boat expecting to be fed. Once in the
water the fish nibble at your fingers and toes
if you look like you have something tasty for
them. The reef here is not as plentiful as further
south but still worth seeing with over 140 species
of hard and soft corals. Tewa Caves is an amazing
place for diving amongst giant groupers, who appear
to sit motionless in the water. These harmless
creatures can weigh 880 pounds (400kg) and measure
5½feet (2 metres) long. The Watamu Marine
Park also encompasses the mangrove forests of
Mida Creek, where young coral grows before being
riding out on the tide to the main reef.
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