The Lower Zambezi National Park lies in the scenic river valley between rolling hills of a hazy escarpment and the mighty Zambezi River. On this remote section, the river has calmed down after its hectic journey over the Victoria Falls and through the Kariba Dam, and now flows calmly but insistently towards Mozambique and the sea. The river acts as the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe and on the south bank opposite the Lower Zambezi National Park, is Zimbabwe's equally wild Mana Pools National Park.
Emerging suddenly out of a uniform scrubland is a 600ft (200m) gigantic orange rock with sheer sides and a flat top. It is what remains of the sandstone casing which once covered large portions of Namibia, and which has formed numerous other peculiar peaks in this region. Glowing gold in late afternoon sun, the Waterberg Plateau looks too tempting to drive past.